Your car’s squeaking is no longer just an annoyance—it’s a neighborhood announcement. Everyone hears the “chirps” and “eeps” of your suspension before they even see you.
Not only is this embarrassing, but ignoring it can lead to expensive repairs if you have to replace worn-out components. So, why do these parts start squeaking?
Over time, suspension and steering joints suffer from unlubricated metal-on-metal contact, which erodes bushings and bearing surfaces much like sandpaper would on wood. Let’s stop the damage before it gets worse.
Lube It Already
The good news? Chassis lubrication isn’t costly. A grease gun, some chassis grease, and a couple of aerosol lubricant cans cost far less than replacing even one worn-out tie rod end.
No excuses your car doesn’t need to sound like an angry gerbil on a treadmill.Many modern cars and light trucks come equipped with “sealed for life” ball joints, tie rod ends, and U-joints.
These parts are factory-filled with grease, but when the grease dries out, the joint wears out. However, some vehicles still come with suspension and driveline parts featuring grease fittings, allowing for regular lubrication with a hand-pumped grease gun.
Even aftermarket replacements for sealed factory parts often come with grease fittings.
So, what’s the key difference between sealed parts and greaseable aftermarket parts? The grease fitting itself. If you’re up for it, you can even drill and tap a hole into a sealed part and add a grease fitting, a practice I follow with my own vehicles.
Why don’t manufacturers include these inexpensive fittings? Automakers cut costs wherever possible, saving a few cents on each of the hundreds of thousands of cars they produce.
Plus, they can market their vehicles as requiring less scheduled maintenance, even if it ultimately means you’ll pay for replacement parts down the road.
Get Underneath
Before lubricating your chassis, you’ll need safe access beneath your car. If you own a truck or SUV, you might have enough ground clearance to crawl under with a grease gun.
For lower vehicles, like a Porsche, you’ll need ramps or safety stands. Always engage the parking brake and block the wheels. For extra safety, place something sturdy, like a spare tire or block of wood, under the vehicle.
Once you’re under the car, follow these steps:
- Locate the grease fitting and clean it with a rag to remove grime, preventing dirt from entering the joint.
- Attach the grease gun to the fitting and pump until fresh grease begins oozing from the edges of the rubber boot.
Your vehicle might have up to a dozen fittings on the front suspension alone. For off-road vehicles that encounter mud and dirt, frequent lubrication is essential.
Look for fittings on tie rod ends, upper and lower ball joints, sway-bar links, control-arm pivots, and even U-joints on the driveshafts.
If grease won’t flow into a fitting, it might be clogged. Apply more pressure with the grease gun. If that fails, remove the fitting with a wrench, clean it with wire and solvent, or replace it with a new one from the auto parts store.
It Still Squeaks
Suspension squeaks aren’t limited to unlubricated joints. Coil or leaf springs can lose their plastic insulators over time, leading to metal-on-metal friction and noise.
To temporarily quiet these squeaks, spray the affected area with lithium grease. Have someone bounce the car while you track down the source.
For squeaks from rubber bushings, use silicone spray, which won’t degrade the rubber, though it’s less durable.
It’s Hitchcock’s Car
If your door, hood, or trunk hinges sound like they belong in a horror movie, they need attention. Start by using aerosol penetrating lube to dissolve corrosion in the hinges, then follow up with lithium grease.
For a groaning hood-release mechanism, clean the latch with spray penetrant or carb cleaner to remove debris. Then lubricate it with lithium grease. Door latches can also get sticky.
Use lithium grease for external latches and dry-film spray for internal ones. The latter avoids attracting dirt and won’t stain your clothes if you brush against it.
Modern vehicles often use plastic bushings in door latches, which technically don’t require lubrication. However, these parts can still accumulate dirt. Clean them with a dry-film spray and wipe off any excess.
Key tumblers should only be lubricated with graphite. Avoid penetrating oils, as they can trap dirt inside the mechanism.
Baby, It’s Cold Outside
Cold weather introduces unique challenges. If your car doors are hard to open when temperatures drop, condensation freezing inside the latch mechanism might be the culprit.
Remove the door panel to check the drains and ensure they’re clear. Spray the mechanism generously with lithium grease to prevent moisture buildup.
If moisture freezes the door seals to the painted frame, you might have to wait it out in a warmer environment. To prevent this, apply silicone lubricant to the seals. Wipe it on with a cloth to avoid overspray, which can create a mess.
Never spray silicone lubricant near the engine bay. Even tiny amounts can contaminate the oxygen sensors, triggering a Check Engine light and necessitating sensor replacement.
Addressing these common issues promptly will keep your car running smoothly, quietly, and safely while saving you money on costly repairs in the long run. Don’t let your vehicle’s squeaks define you take action today!
